Effective communication is the root of most problems when it comes to the human + canine relationship.
We try to talk to our canines "Smooch, off the couch!" and they tilt their heads.
"Woof?"
We ask ourselves;
"Why won't he listen ?"
The problem is not in the canine. The issue rests with us for not pairing our cues with the appropriate behaviors.
We can help our dogs to understand faster by showing them the behavior first and then adding the cue once they grasp the action/behavior.
It is well known that, generally, nature takes the path of least resistance. I like to think, that, me having to show my dog the behavior with a hands on approach, like we would a child, is NOT the path of least resistance. The hands on approach reduces the autonomy of the canine, as it would a child, so I call this FRICTION.
I like to build the friction for a while until I know, without a doubt, that my canine knows the behavior or action I am cueing for. Then I will add the verbal cue to create the path of least resistance. Now my canine will have the opportunity to choose if they want me to show them with a hands on approach or if they will do it on their own.
In the beginning, I pair incentive with the hands on approach by having highly desirable treats. Slowly, as they learn what my motions mean (motions being my body movements & leash language) I will move away from giving incentive until I introduce the cue. Once the cue becomes effectively conditioned to the behavior, I will begin to only give them incentive 1/5 times, then, eventually, 1/10 times and so on and so forth.
Trying to teach the dog a verbal cue with a physical action, in the beginning will confuse and clutter the dog. Why not start simple before putting too much on them?
Naturally we want to talk to them, remember, our words mean very little to them unless we consistently attach behavior & meaning to them.
Some canines need only a handful of repetitions to reliably understand. Other dogs will need vast amounts of repetitions to understand. Make sure to keep in mind that every canine is different, from sporting, to working breeds, & from beagles to bassets. I could have two German Shepherds and both canines could be completely different in motivation and energy levels even though they are the same type of dog. Work with them at their pace and do not try to have unrealistic expectations just because you have seen other dogs get it right away.
CUES
Should be short. "Come!" is easier to grasp than "Come over here!"
One cue means one action. Do not try to attach multiple actions to a single cue. Down should mean lay down and only lay down. If I want my dog to stop jumping up on me I can say "Off" or "No Jumping".
Be consistent with cues. If I say "Sit" one time and then "Sit down" next time I am being inconsistent. Pick one cue for a specific action to increase efficacy
Use a neutral voice. I don't have to be mean or angry and I do not have to be overly excited or happy. A regular tone will suffice. I pretend like I am talking to someone I have known for years and we are alone. Variations in tone will be introduced but we will talk about that in later posts.
MAGNETIZE
I like to call or magnetize my canines awareness before asking them to do something for me. For me this means saying their name, this gives them the signal that I am about to ask something of them and so we become receptive to one another. This is why I make sure to utilize their name only when I really want to get their attention.
If my canine will not give attention to their name then why would they listen to a cue?
"Blueseph"
I wait 3-5 seconds.
She looks at me.
"Come"
She walks towards me.
"Good girl"
When she completes the cue I may give her a treat or ask for another action.
HOW DO I KNOW MY CANINE IS LISTENING?
Dogs "speak" utilizing body language, intonation, eye contact, ear & tail positioning and energy. Noticing their subtle expressions can help us to communicate with them. By speaking their language they become more receptive and learn more easily.
EARS
Ears laying flat to the head indicate fear, precaution, or apprehension. Some dogs have ears that do not allow for a lot of expression. For example Cocker Spaniels have long ears that naturally lay flat and do not stand erect. This does not mean their ears will not express, it just means they will express slightly different. Paying attention to the subtleties of movement goes a long way.
EYES
Soft and sweet expression indicates contentment, they may even squint. Content and alert is good. Just because your dog stares you in the eyes does not mean they are challenging you, for most canines, they are connecting and saying "What are we gunna do next?".
Eye contact is a sign of confidence.
Shy, nervous or frightened canines will avoid eye contact by all means.
MOUTH
Some dogs smile! Yes this means happy.
A tense closed mouth is indicative of stress.
The lips pulled back at the corners & panting, depending on the context of the situation may indicate stress. If they are running around with their mates in a game of tag this does not mean they are stressed, they are just playing and exorcising. On the other hand, I am getting ready to teach a dog how to run on the treadmill and before we get on the tread, the canine starts panting.
Dogs will pant when they are in pain.
If a canine is panting then closes their mouth it could indicate increased stress.
When a dog is warning another dog to stay away they will move their lips forward over their teeth so they look puffy.
Lips may also retract & curl exposing the teeth, sometimes accompanied by a growl. This is different than a submissive grin, which is often mistaken for a snarl. Submissive grins are accompanied by lips pulled up vertically to show the front teeth & a submissive body posture- curved body; low, wagging tail; frequently looking away and squinty eyes.
TAIL
Tail tucked may indicate shyness or fear.
Wagging tails are often mistake for friendliness but this could be a serious mistake. Just because a dog is wagging their tail doesn't mean that they are social or that they want us to pet them.
A low and wagging tail (almost between the legs maybe even tucked in between the legs almost touching the stomach) could be stress or fear or submission.
A tail that is held very high and wagging indicates high arousal. They could be excited to meet you or he could be getting agitated, contemplating lunging or even biting.
Mid-level or low swishy tail wags are a sign of happiness or friendliness. Some dogs get so happy their tail will do circles.
BODY POSTURE
A lot of weight on the front paws shows a desire to decrease distance and an eagerness to move towards the thing in question.
More weight on the hind legs shows a desire to move away & increase distance.
Conflicted dogs will shift their weight back and forth between front and hind quarters.
Curved body means friendliness or appeasement.
The clip below exhibits what a healthy interaction should look like. When watching pay particular attention to the position of the ears & tail. The shape of the body, if the mouth is open and when it is closed. Do you see a smile? Do you see an exchange, a conversation happening here?
*Leave a comment and let me know what you see*
Learning our canines intonations & expressions will always be the biggest shift in our relationships with canines. I see it as meeting them halfway rather than expecting them to come all the way to me.
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